After last year the two Ragni di Lecco, Matteo Bernasconi “Bern” and Matteo Della Bordella, had already tried to get their hands on the inviolate west face of the Torre Egger (2685 m), in Patagonia, this year the two are left to try and close the accounts with this beautiful spire. The presentation of the adventure in the words of Matthew and the update of December 29, 2011 (the last until today).
Matteo Della Bordella, a young climber from Varese that Linea Verticale knows well, is protagonist in these days of an attempt, together with his climbing partner, also Ragno di Lecco, Matteo Bernasconi, on the west of Torre Egger where he had already “stuck his nose” ” last year. Here are the words with which Matteo presented the vertical journey he has taken on since the second half of December: “From the technical point of view the biggest news from last year is that we bring the portaledge we want to fix to the base of the wall so as to avoid every time approach, hoof and snowfield.And then we have a little ‘more time available, in the sense that we have planned two months (but it could be more or less, who knows).
For the rest, place and goal are always those. As the wise men say, the mountains are always there, they do not run away, so we hope to find the Egger Tower again this year. In addition to the Torre Egger it would be nice to find all our material on the wall, but this is another story, let’s say that for safety we will still take all the material up to the Circo de Los Altares, then we’ll see. Last year I had some ideas about how Patagonia was and what to expect, but it was just ideas, since I had never been there; but now I know exactly what awaits me, I think and I hope to be more prepared both mentally and physically than technically, then you will see it once there if they are or not.
Well, compared to last year
I also hope not to go hungry in truna, rather we say to spend very little time in truna …
My ideal way: 30 shots, all hand cracks, variable inclination, from the 6th to the 7th , and then 1 shot with a boulder on plates, well protected by excellent friends and then 15 meters of fingers slit up into the chain, 8a, then a bit of ice at the end for good Berne … All the way in free and without bolts of course, 5 days of stable weather, temperature 4/7 degrees, sun and zero wind. It seems easy to say, but not in Patagonia; it is useless to go there with this false expectation, here at the end we go to fight, to confront a very challenging mountain, I am interested in climbing these 1000 meters of rock, climbing free if possible, but first of all climb!
And in any case, going again to this place that has remained as it was to Mother Nature created it, trying to climb these walls, in the same way as Paolo Crippa and Eliana De Zordo did, is already something in itself exciting. Here … I wish that, unlike Paolo and Eliana, our Torre Egger also had a return, not just the going (touch … :-)) “.
Update of December 29, 2011: it seemed that Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella were at the base of the Torre Egger in truna, but the situation was not very clear also because of the difficulty of communication with satellite vehicles. Then the morning of 29/12 came the first encouraging news: the two continued their ascent to the summit of Egger: after the hoof and the 8 pitches passed last year another 5 shots were opened. The Colle Lux is now closer and making the accounts should be about 250 meters before getting there which represent the key part of the ascent being mostly overhanging. Once at the hill the climb should continue on mixed terrain. The two later fell as the weather worsened with gusts of wind up to 160 km / h but it seems that the next “ventana” was already scheduled for January 2nd. Today is 4 … Will they be alive?